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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 11:58 am 
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Long over due and costing me a ton of stupid tax. What do yall suggest,,,electric or mechanical. Brand etc.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 1:36 pm 
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i ordered the 4 in 1 guage from summit, it comes with everything you need except wireing, its all electric and i like pretty good :wink: its around $150 if i remeber rite. tack, oil, water temp, and volt meter all combigned into 1 5inch guage

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 2:50 pm 
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I suggest electric gauges. Too much chance of messing up a oil line from the motor to the front, causing another round of taxes. In some forms of racing your not allowed to run anything that pipes fluid into the drivers compartment.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 3:05 pm 
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MadMike wrote:
I suggest electric gauges. Too much chance of messing up a oil line from the motor to the front, causing another round of taxes. In some forms of racing your not allowed to run anything that pipes fluid into the drivers compartment.

good thinking :idea:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 3:39 pm 
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-800104/?rtype=10
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 3:46 pm 
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hillaholic wrote:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-800104/?rtype=10
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thanks hillaholic, i was looking for the picture :D

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 6:11 pm 
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Electric. The mechanical units are ok if you dont have them to far from the motor however being our motors are in the back it's not feasibal withourt and extension. I too will be adding an electric water temp gauge over the winter, stupid tax sucks. Ok A/C guys have at at! :twisted:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 6:55 pm 
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my opinion (and experiance) is to use autometer, vdo, stewart warner, or maybe sunpro and foget equus, autogage, and "store" brands, also stay away from knock offs and or look-a-likes with items such as gauges, meters, testing equipment and such

and as far as electric vs. mechanical

i would use mechanical if possible on the oil pressure ( just make sure and use copper tubing to hook it up with and throw away the plastc tubing that come with most gauges these days and run the tubing just like you would a wire to keep it out of harms way ), more accurate in my opinion

temps are fine with electric, im not sure if all are, but i know some "mechanical" temp gauges are really "electrical" anyways due to fact they operate off of a thermocouple which is basicaly an electrical process

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 7:13 pm 
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before i went wc, i ran a mechanical oil guage on my stroker, with copper tubeing. my guage ofcourse mounted in the dash, it read 15pounds diff at dash than it did plumbed directly into my engine port :?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 7:22 pm 
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bmoore wrote:
before i went wc, i ran a mechanical oil guage on my stroker, with copper tubeing. my guage ofcourse mounted in the dash, it read 15pounds diff at dash than it did plumbed directly into my engine port :?


thats strange, if 60 psi went in one end of the tubeing 60 psi should come the other end :?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 7:31 pm 
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Odyknuck wrote:
Electric. The mechanical units are ok if you dont have them to far from the motor however being our motors are in the back it's not feasibal withourt and extension. I too will be adding an electric water temp gauge over the winter, stupid tax sucks. Ok A/C guys have at at! :twisted:


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 7:37 pm 
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ridenrace6 wrote:
bmoore wrote:
before i went wc, i ran a mechanical oil guage on my stroker, with copper tubeing. my guage ofcourse mounted in the dash, it read 15pounds diff at dash than it did plumbed directly into my engine port :?


thats strange, if 60 psi went in one end of the tubeing 60 psi should come the other end :?


i agree :wink: thats why i like electric

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 7:40 pm 
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I like electric gauges. Easy,hassle free and accurate if you buy QUALITY gauges. Auto meter makes the best stuff imo.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 9:23 pm 
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electric. mechanical ran from any kind of distance from the motor is by no means more accurate. think, you have said distance of tubing to create error. whereas electric gets the reading right at that point and is then transmitted to the gauge, not really much room for error if you have quality gauges...


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 9:43 pm 
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no gauges at all because there a distraction :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol: but for u guys id go electric.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 9:55 pm 
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electric auto meter ez to run


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 1:55 am 
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JeffClay wrote:
electric. mechanical ran from any kind of distance from the motor is by no means more accurate. think, you have said distance of tubing to create error. whereas electric gets the reading right at that point and is then transmitted to the gauge, not really much room for error if you have quality gauges...


i dont understand what the length of tubing ( especially if its copper ) has to do with it, it looks to me like if 60 psi goes in one end then 60 psi should come out the other end as long as there are no kinks or leaks?

and as far as the electric goes, it looks to me like there would be just as many, if not more room for errors, due to factors such as the gauge, # of strands, length of run, resistance or ohms ( which is how an electrical oil pressure works if i'm not nistaken ), material ( copper or aluminum ), etc... of the wire?

these are just my thoughts and i could be all wrong i dunno :?

maybe we have an electrician and a hydraulic expert on here that could explain the pros and cons of each :|

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 3:16 pm 
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You can think of a mechanical oil pressure gauge like this..

You have a 100ft garden hose, think of how much more pressure comes out of the spicket than out of the end of an opened hose

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 4:52 pm 
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I know for a facy Ron lost a motor due to a electric oil guage. It shorted out inside the sending unit and caused it to read good pressure all the time. A mechanical gauge either works or it dont.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 10:32 pm 
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Anything terribly wrong with digital gauges?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 2:42 am 
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Firebug wrote:
Anything terribly wrong with digital gauges?


nothing in my opinion, other than they are electric and as kevin said, may short out :wink:

and as far as the water hose example mentioned above, i did a test today, and the end result was about a 3 psi difference between the faucet and the end of a 50 ft rubber garden hose ( there is a difference between an "open" flow and a "dead head" pressure ) :roll:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 3:36 am 
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dumby light LOL cause are your not gona let out cause the pressure dropped off!! :shock: no me neither!!!!!! :twisted: :mrgreen: OHHH!!!! NO WATER SPILLING HERE!!!! :mrgreen:
Graden2387 wrote:
no gauges at all because there a distraction :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol: but for u guys id go electric.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 8:32 am 
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ridenrace6 wrote:
Firebug wrote:
Anything terribly wrong with digital gauges?


nothing in my opinion, other than they are electric and as kevin said, may short out :wink:

and as far as the water hose example mentioned above, i did a test today, and the end result was about a 3 psi difference between the faucet and the end of a 50 ft rubber garden hose ( there is a difference between an "open" flow and a "dead head" pressure ) :roll:



friction loss is probably minimal

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 9:31 am 
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kevin f wrote:
I know for a facy Ron lost a motor due to a electric oil guage. It shorted out inside the sending unit and caused it to read good pressure all the time. A mechanical gauge either works or it dont.



That's why we should run a oil pressure light when the pressure drops below the factory setting of the stock pressure switch. I have ran electrical oil gauges forever and it works great as long as you don't see the light come on when running, once it does and the gauge show good pressure, then you got a bad sending unit :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 4:35 pm 
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Firebug wrote:
ridenrace6 wrote:
Firebug wrote:
Anything terribly wrong with digital gauges?


nothing in my opinion, other than they are electric and as kevin said, may short out :wink:

and as far as the water hose example mentioned above, i did a test today, and the end result was about a 3 psi difference between the faucet and the end of a 50 ft rubber garden hose ( there is a difference between an "open" flow and a "dead head" pressure ) :roll:



friction loss is probably minimal


yeah i forgot that, the best i remember that is called the "c factor", but it seems that would only come into play during "flow" and not "pressure", but i could be wrong :|

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