Badvw,Whos needle bearing spindels did you buy? Double shear helps you from bending andor breaking the lower shock bolt . I hit a rock twice and bent the bolt. I did modify the Tweed arms so the shank of the 1/2" bolt recessed into the bore about 5/8' to help.

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The spindles came directly from Tweeds through Dan's Performance Parts, I did not know any special about the spindles until I saw some talking about it on here a while back about the bushings or something, the main part that the housing spins on has needle bearings and where the link pins go through has bushings in it, I was told that as long as you shim them properly you will have no trouble out of them and it still has the original bushings in them, just new 7/8" pins now.

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I just got those Chad. What shims?

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It depends on your front end geometry, I used a set of shims from Dan's Performance Parts because of the 7/8" diameter, I don't think stock link pin shims will work, it is kinda hard to explain how to set them up properly, it will work best if you use a caster/chamber degree tool and I borrowed it from a local late-model racing team to set up the angles properly depending on the shims, every buggy will be different.

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There is a bunch going on here. (Non of this pertains to stock VW) First the shims are used to make up for any mis-alignment during machining and fabrication of the arms and king pins. First rule is there needs to be a minum of 2 shims on both sides of the king pin, in between the arm and the king pin and the head of the link pin and the king pin.

With the arms and spindles I make the king pin has a 3.5* lean in at the top so the upper arm is shorter than the lower arm. To align my set up I provide a plastic guage to check the arms in the beam. Tweeds set up might be different as is Foddrill's.

To properly square the king pin and the arms take a straight edge and on the lower pivot of the lower arm where the arm and the king pin meet (of course everything needs to be apart) swing it over the lower pivot of the top arm and note the difference. If they do not line up exactly with the spacer, there needs to be shims added to make up the difference. If there is a gap in between the straight edge and the gauge block on the arm, say 1/16" you need to add 1/16" of spacers to the upper link pin in between the king pin and the arm. That make the ends of the arms parallel to the king pin and square to the link pin. If you don't do this the front will be stiff for a while and cause the link pins and bushings to wear fast.

Perhaps the "Tweed's stuff being junk" was a little harsh, I'll rephrase. Tweeds stuff is alright as a entry level, only ride it 5 or 6 times a year, and don't ride at Wellsville suspension. One of our frequent flyers at Wellsville has a hard time making a set of Tweed's last one riding season. Just plain wore out.

The double shear on the lower shock isn't as important as how Tweed did theirs. If you were to break the lower shock bolt and it were jammed in the threaded boss. You can't weld something to the end, how you getting it out? Aint drilling it and using an easy out. Maybe a hammer and a center punch, if your lucky.

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Thanks for clearing up the shims. I'm still running stock arms at this point. One step at a time as budget allows.

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Chuck DOES extend balljoint arms,, if are still interested.
606-224-9921 noon-4pm best time to catch him

I am a little confused here. Tweeds did not start making the Needle bearing Spindles until very recent. Are your sure they are his and not Latest Rage?

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I am 100% sure that these came from Tweeds, it was shipped to me directly from Tweeds itself, nope they are not the Latest Rage stuff.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"