I just picked up my first rail last night. It's been about 15 years since I owned a Super Beetle (first car, learned to drive in it). So basically, I have no idea yet what I'm getting into.

A few needs:

No brakes! all new parts in the rear and new master (not installed) and needs lines from master to rear brakes. Nothing in the front but the empty drum with the wheel mounted to it.

There seems to be an oil leak somewhere between the engine and tranny.

I'm going street legal, so I have all that electrical to deal with. Any advice from other Alabama street legal owners would be greatly appreciated.

Starter is gone, but it's a lifetime unit from O'rielly's, so I just have to take it off and go swap it for a new one.

And, Yes! It came fully loaded with the custom seat covers!





Came with spare parts. Supposed to be a dual port engine, buggy has a single port on there now. There's probably 6 jugs and pistons, 3 carbs, 2 alternators/generators, and a bunch of other bits and pieces.

what ya need to know about the street legal stuff

Everything concerning Alabama.
What lights are required? Head, tail, turn and tag, but do I need reverse lights, side markers, etc?
Glass or plexi windshield?
Wipers?
VIN?
Where do I go for inspection, Tag office or Highway Patrol?
Front brakes required?
Is the keg ok or do I need a real gas tank?

It came with a new set of 5 point harnesses, so I have seat belts covered, but that's about it. Everything else has to be added, including mounting tabs for the lights and tag.

My buggy has kc lights on front and plain empi tail lights. Put it as a 73 custom beetle so you don't need a title and a tag was ab 30 bucks. I've never been pulled over but a cop did stop In behind me to make sure I didn't just pull the tag offa something esle and throw it. I just wear my lap belts when I drive it

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IF YA CAN'T RUN WITH IT....RUN FROM IT

i got the inspection from from the county courthouse just had my nephew whos a cop fill it out i did not have a vin number so they told me to just make up one.headlight and taillights are all ya need.i have never been pulled over in mine.

Ok, thanks for that info. I might go ahead and slap some lights on there and give it a shot. I have a couple of weeks off at Christmas and that will give me plenty of time to add or change anything they say is a no-go.

where ya live in alabama

Live in Opelika, but work at AU.

Updated part of my profile.

Welcome to the fray, a lot of really great folks on this site. We were all newbies once. Got to love the seat covers. Looks like a great start.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Thanks. I was hoping they would blow off on the 3.5 hour drive home. Since they didn't, looks like they were meant to stay.

never seen headers like those have they got baffles in them if not police might not like em.

They actually aren't that loud, but I don't particularly love the look. They might get changed.

i understand and cant blame ya

That looks like ever extra parts pile I've ever been given - 3 or 4 stock oil cooler, some drums, a couple of generators, and boat load of single port heads....... Lol
Looks good and Welcome to buggy'n

Well, the "engine with no leaks" seems to have a pretty good oil leak after running. I figure if I'm going to take it out and clean it up, I might as well replace all the seals. Which kit do I need and does this include everything or do I need to order a rear main or anything separate? What is the "007"? Is there something on my engine that would tell me which one I need?

http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/bug ... earing.htm

Sorry for the dumb questions, but I'm learning as I go.

A kit should come with everything but a rear main. But after you take the flywheel off its gotta be tourqed to 300 lbs when put back on. Might as well put a new gland nut aswell

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IF YA CAN'T RUN WITH IT....RUN FROM IT

300 lbs?!? My torque wrench doesn't go that high.

You may need to search for it, but there is a "technical" way to do it without a huge torque wrench. Something like, place a bar on the wrench and depending how heavy you are place your hands X distance from the nut and lift your body weight off the floor by pushing down on the bar. Of course you need to stop the flywheel from turning too.

Someone else will probably say to get a huge impact and just hammer on it.

Then there is also the "torquemeister". http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... C-C10-7036

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

check your local auto parts store for a loaner

I've seen one of those before and they work awesome.

_________________
IF YA CAN'T RUN WITH IT....RUN FROM IT

Spent a few hours with a stripper and almost everything is gone



Also got the engine mostly cleaned up so I can find the leaks.

Now all you have to do is clear it, Rat rod buggy, kind of looks tie died. Hard at work, pace yourself these things cane exhaust your energy and your wallet. Looking good man keep it up

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Aircraft remover and a pressure washer, not too hard, yet. But the wallet drain has begun already.

Next dumb question. I have this:



and this



and can't figure out how to make this work. Do I just need a new pedal mount?

Also, how does the m/c attach to the pedal? It seems there should by some type of push rod, but I can't seem to find it anywhere in the parts or online. I see the new m/c and the new pedals, but not that rod.

your right about the push rod that might be a junk yard part.