Just wondering is there a way to sync the carbs with out have the little sync tool? or whatever its called

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You can get very close without a sync tool. Just crank the motor up and set the idle up with the linkage rods unhookede. once you get it to idle good hook the linkage rods up and set the rods where both carbs open a the same time. Thats the easiest way I know of and it works good for me everytime.

Alright, Ive been readin a lot of stuff on how to get them adjusted etc..Just didnt know if the sync tool was totally necessary. Ill see what happens tomorrow when i get them both on, and go from there.

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IMHO a manometer is a must to get them right. If they are not right then all throttle positions will be effected.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I cant even get this thing to idle long enough to have a chance at adjusting anything lol, But Im done in the garage for today, walking past my dirtbike and hit my knee cap on the footpeg and it dropped me to the floor, SO Im done for the day considering i cant hardly walk . Try again tomorro hopefully

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Would the float adjustment have any effect on it idling?

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also, Just now reading a different article on setting them up, But the one i read before said turn idle mixtures out 1.5 turns for a base setting, The other says 3 turns out for a starting point maybe thats where im messing up?

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I would not mess with them , i would pay someone that has expeirence with them to tune it for one reason and that is i feel there is not a happy meduim on duals ... its there tuned perfect or their not correct at all !
might run great around the yard but idle down some steep hills and it will stall out or up it will cut out .. and so on ....... and on .... and on !
good luck though !

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Theirs no replacement for displacement !

3 turns out is a good starting point. make sure they are clean and have no trash.

Alright maybe the 3 turns is where i was goin wrong, i was tryin it at 1 1/2 GIG whoever learned anything buy payin someone else to do it for them!!!>?>??

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And they are clean, with complete rebuild top to bottom from gaskets to all the jets. only thing that was reused was the floats.

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I start with mixture at 1.5 to 2 and I set the floats at 12mm? off off road . Hold the top of card up side down & make the float run up hill a little and I mean a little .Fuel pressure 3-1/2 psi set timing about 30deg. at 2500 to 3000 rpm. What idle jets main jets air jets

An almost free way of doing it, all you need is
-about 6 ft of clear tubing that will fit over your carbs vac port
-30 or greater weight oil, even used or 2 stroke oil will work
-a stick about 2 ft long

Take the 6ft tube and double it over itself, fasten the loop end to the stick using clear tape, hang the stick so that the loop is on the bottom, then fill the loop of the hose with enough oil that it fills the bottom 6 inches of the loop. connect the open ends to your carbs and there you go. At idle you will see which side is higher (more vacum ) and it is possible for you to "see" your adjustments. It also works for carb opening sync by watching which side pulls vac first enabling you to adjust linkage. Even if your carbs are really far off it won't pull oil into the carb and if it does, its engine oil. I have used this for 15 yrs on everything from motorcycles to tri-power chevys.

Interesting, concept I think i read about that last night. Now my engine ran fine before i started this ordeal, Is it a possibility that the timing needs adjusted to compensate for anything? or if it was correct before should it be fine now? The way it idles it acts like the timing is off a little bit

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? ? only one why to no

Do what?? lol

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If you do this you should be running.also on your idle set screws run them all the way out then use a filler gauge to make sure that your linkage is even on both sides then run your screws out evenly.that way your exact amount for sure on both sides.Chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

I got it idling now, But ima get a sync gauge soon(Thanks Odyknuck) cuz WC guys dont need those ancient tools anymore lol. But Ima get new plugs in the morning, and also check the fuel pressure, Im running stock pump with no regulator. Potential problem?

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If the pressure would be a problem that doesnt make sense to me considering i didnt change any of that when switching from the weber progressive that was on it. Its a new pump so i know its working good, but if it wasnt to much pressure for that carb how could it be for duals?

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Stock pump should run those fine.Chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

I know that if you mess with the little screws at the very bottom of the carb just below the idle mixture screws,you will definitely need a sync meter,because i messed with those one day and had my carbs all F'd up. Your stock pump should be fine without a regulator.My buddy has a 2500 and he runs a stock pump with no regulator.Did you set your accelerator pump linkage back to where it originally was?

what kind of intake gaskets are you using ? the thin metal ones will not seal on dual carb manifolds very well

I never messed with the accelerator pump linkage, the gaskets are paper or watever ya wanna call'm they are the good ones. I did find that i forgot to tighten one of the bolts on the intake, it was finger tight But that could also be causing problems. So guess tomorrow i adjust the floats, im gonna clean the carbs AGAIN just for shits and giggles, make sure everything is tightened down, new plugs and see what it does. Appreciate all your guys input.

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One step forward TWO steps back...Messing with this and notice a funny smell. Just doesnt smell like a running motor should lol. So pull the top of a carb off to inspect, The gas looks like piss. My garage gets condensation in it like crazy, like tools laying on the bench are wet right now etc.. SO maybe tank was condensating, from the buggy being in there and makin bad gas? Idk But gonna drain everything clean it again and see where im at from there.

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