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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 10:38 am 
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Location: Southaven MS
Hello .. I'm running a basically stock link pin front end on my rail. Every time I ride I bend the front driver side spindle. I'm running the gusset kits. The first time it pulled the spindle spud ( where the bearings ride ) out of the spindle about a 1/8 inch at the bottom. Over the weekend I did some very mild riding and it pulled out in the same place and bend the spindle spud in the center between the bearings into a u like bend. It has about 17 degrees negative camber. Im running a stock bug tire and a 6 inch wide rim with 3 inch back spaceing.. I can't get the hub off .. And ideas or suggestions to make this area stronger would be greatly appreciated. Pictures to fallow ..


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 2:30 pm 
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I'll be listening to just did the same thing to the same side on Scooby Saturday night :roll:


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 2:38 pm 
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{Stop hittin siht} That's sarcastic font. Once you bend something it creates a memory and will return to that bend when it can. I would suggest replacing the bent spindle or think about going to a heavier duty set of arms and spindles. I'm probably going to be building a couple of sets of spindles here in the not to distant future. :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 3:45 pm 
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Run factor VW wheels. I had offset wheels on a ball joint and always was breaking the steering box bolts off. The offset wheels put too much leverage on the steering system. Not 100% sure about your problem but it couldn't hurt to try.


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 4:12 pm 
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My humble opinion differs little from Mikes, if you intend to run a stock spindle then you should get a cold roled rod and slide it in the speedo cable and weld it in both ends. This will make the spindle significantly stronger. Note this will not work on a bent spindle as the material has been yielded.

This is an old school reinforcement tech tip :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 5:01 pm 
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Red Barron wrote:
My humble opinion differs little from Mikes, if you intend to run a stock spindle then you should get a cold roled rod and slide it in the speedo cable and weld it in both ends. This will make the spindle significantly stronger. Note this will not work on a bent spindle as the material has been yielded.

This is an old school reinforcement tech tip


I forgot about the speedo hole. It's only been a couple of years or so since I dealt with stock stuff. The insert needs to fit real tight or it won't work like it should. And weld it on the inside only there's to much of a chance to screw up the threads trying to weld the outside.

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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 5:43 pm 
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i use to turn down allen bolts to fit in the hole there stronger then cold roll steel


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 8:12 pm 
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Good good combo spindles . Saco rack . Good front arms . and ride. And like mike said don't hit shit. We ran stock stuff for years never broke a stock spindle. Bent some but not bad. Or cut your kingpin spindles off and put ball joint spindle spuds on it as they are bigger and won't bend as easy.


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 8:19 pm 
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If u intend on running a stock steering box shim the pitmant arm and weld it . And beef the the cover with strap where it bolts on the 4 bolts.


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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 9:14 am 
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I didnt hit nothing .. yet. :lol: :lol: Its from them damn hard dryed up dirt ruts .. i got it cought in one badly. Thank you all very much for the comments , tips. and suggestions . I was wondering about the speedometer hole making it weaker than the other spindle. I have my steering box shimmed up and my tie rods reinforced. I'm not sure what you mean about welding it. Eventually I will do a full front end upgrade .. here a picture.

Image
It's worse in person

Image

I found this very helpful on turning down the bolt .. I just don't have access to a metal lathe anymore .. What size cold told rod do you use ?


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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 12:15 pm 
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{It's hard to tell with the picture taken with a potato} Kidding, It almost looks to me like you have a bent trailing arm. The spindle carrier is almost parallel with the wheel and tire. Maybe check that too.
The outside diameter of the pin for the spindle needs to be 21/64, .3281" I don't think anything is commercially available in that exact size.

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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 6:22 pm 
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MadMike wrote:
{It's hard to tell with the picture taken with a potato} Kidding, It almost looks to me like you have a bent trailing arm. The spindle carrier is almost parallel with the wheel and tire. Maybe check that too.
The outside diameter of the pin for the spindle needs to be 21/64, .3281" I don't think anything is commercially available in that exact size.

How about a drill bit?

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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 7:02 pm 
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I'm thinking that would be to hard, read to brittle and not full contact with the flutes.
BUT, a transfer punch would be the ticket.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#transfer-punches/=mysbpz

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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 7:41 pm 
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Location: Southaven MS
I greatly appreciate y'all's help and ideas. Think in going to do the bolt thing .. I just can't find a machine shop around here. I haven't had time to mess with it yet. I do have a complete beam for parts tho. Just got to make up new gusset plates .. Here is some better pictures. All I have is this iPhone4 tho. Nothing else sorry if they are kinda crappy

Image

Image

Image

This one shows how it pulled out of the actual spindle and how it's bent .. Should I weld this in the replacement ??the trailing arms look pretty good and normal still ..

Anyone what to turn me down two bolts ? I have paypal. I will pay for the bolts , shipping and labor within reason . :lol: 8) or should I use the transfer punch ?


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